Skip the ground-level crowds and climb straight to the golden rooftop for the clearest view of Potala Palace. The main hall is suffocatingly thick with the scent of yak butter lamps, but the ancient Jowo Shakyamuni statue makes the sensory overload worth it. Spend two hours inside, then join the locals walking the Barkhor circuit clockwise. Ditch the overpriced group tours; just show up early, dodge the pilgrims, and wander the interior at your own pace.
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