Skip the crowded city center and head to the coast for legit ceviche. You need to watch local fishermen paddle their caballitos de totora reed boats through the surf—it is the only reason this surf town feels special. Spend two hours lounging, then grab a plate of fresh sea bass at a shack near the pier. Avoid the overpriced tourist traps on the main strip. Go at golden hour for the best light and less wind.
